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bub's Power Stroke
Instruction...
Brought to you courtesy of George Fitting - bub
and Mega-Links
PS
Basics... 
Introduction
Menu
Mouse Sensitivity
So,
let's start with the PS swing meter. The
different methods of swinging in PS are
Click-Release-Click (CRC) or Click-Hold-Release
(CHR), your preference. CRC method, you click
and release to initiate the swing, pause at the
back of your swing causing the strength marker
to drop, and then click again at the snap point.
The CHR method, you click and hold button to
initiate the swing and then release the mouse
button to drop the strength marker, then one
more click at snap. I prefer to click twice,
click and release to start my swing then pause
on back swing to drop marker, then again at the
snap point. It doesn't matter on your full shots
where you drop the back swing marker. Really!
You can drop it all the way back or drop it
centimeters behind the snap point at the start
of the swing. CHS (club head speed) is the total
determination of the power/strength of the swing
on full shots. The only time the drop point is
important is either when chipping or putting.
Then CHS and the distance of the drop marker
from the snap point determine the power/strength
of the shot. Make sure you understand this
completely.
You click on the club head to start your swing.
You draw the club back with your mouse, some
pause before starting downswing, then smoothly
accelerate forward and click again at snap
point. You will need to be aware of three
things, CHS, swing path and club face angle. The
CHS is determined by the speed of the club head
as it passes the snap point. The swing path is
determined by the path of the mouse and the face
angle is a factor of when you drop the snap.
Drop it after the snap point (late) and you will
have an open face, before and the face will be
closed.
CHS: The smoother the transition between the
back swing and the forward swing, the more
likely you will obtain good consistent CHS. Just
like in real golf, if you try to do too much
with the shot or swing too hard, you actually
lose both CHS and control of your club head.
Remember, the longer the club, more CHS will be
generated automatically.
CHS and the different clubs: For driving, try to
generate at least 110mph. That should be your
goal and if you can get 110mph with your driver,
then you will find your drives to be very
similar in length to your drives using the click
method. 110mph with your driver should be
considered your minimum acceptable. Many of the
top PS'ers consistently reach speeds of
115-120mph and higher with their drivers. My
personal top speed with the driver has been
126.6mph. CHS and fairway woods: minimum CHS
should be 100mph with a target range of between
105-110mph. This range will provide you with
both acceptable distance and control. Long
irons: 90-95mph is the correct range for the
clubs 6 irons and above. For the mid irons: I
have found 85mph to be a perfect match with
Microbell's Loft Chart (which I still use PS'n).
For the wedges: 80mph seems to work great.
Swing path: The swing path is the path your
mouse takes from the end of your back swing on
through to your snap point. You can miss by
swinging in to out, out to in or just plain miss
the sweet spot of the club. An in to out swing
produces a draw shot and an out to in swing
fades the ball. You can exaggerate the 'miss' to
carve (curve) the ball out of trouble. If you
hit in the sweet spot (the mouse movement
straight down the center of the PS swing meter),
you gain some extra distance. The further away
from the sweet spot you make contact with the
ball, the less pure the hit and the distance is
affected accordingly.
Club face angle: This is determined by where you
hit the snap. Hit it exactly and your club face
will be perfectly square. This will transfer the
maximum amount of the force/strength of the
swing to the ball and give you the most
distance. Hit snap early and the club face will
be closed causing the ball to start on a lower
trajectory, move right to left, carry a shorter
distance and roll more. Hit snap late and the
club face will be open causing a loss of
distance as the ball starts out higher, moves
left to right, carries shorter and stops
quickly.
You can get into trouble very quickly with the
PS swing method. Any one of the above swing
factors can get you into trouble by itself. When
you combine mistakes from 2 or even all 3 of the
factors, holy hannah, it can get ugly. For
instance, couple an in to out swing path with an
early snap and you have a shot that starts out
right of target, low and turns over abruptly to
the left (hook), carries very short and rolls
and rolls. But, on the plus side, this can be
very useful for getting the ball on down the
fairway from positions that would make a clicker
just hack it back to the fairway. It is very
hard to control though as these different swing
factors are created 'on the fly'.
How I swing the club... I have got a great tip
for you, courtesy of Water Dog. Thank you very
much playing pard. The PS swing meter is similar
to the click method in one aspect, you only need
to place the 'tee' inside the meter in any
location before starting the swing. This means
you do not have to place the tee on the PS club
head, but anywhere inside the swing meter. Now,
your first reaction would be to place the tee on
the club head. That is the way I've done it from
the beginning. Water Dog suggested I try placing
the tee elsewhere, his recommendation, about 2/3
back on the meter. This didn't feel right to me
so I made an adjustment. I place the tee to
start the swing on the first mark (about 25%
back) behind the club face. I only watch the
snap point, no need to be aware of how far back
you swing as the only determining factor of
distance/power on full shots is CHS. This tip
has improved my consistency and power by a
factor of 2, at least.
I hope this gives you a basic understanding of
the fundamental idea behind PS. Practice,
practice and practice some more.
Introduction
Menu
Mouse Sensitivity
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